This is about the tenth time I have been there since 1997 and the only changes i have noitced is the buses are no longer allowed in the city center due the narrow streets and traffic, and the proliferation of American fast food outlets.
Surprising to many foreigners is that it gets very cold in November and December with temperatures at times close to freezing. There are few places with any kind of heat so people sleep a bit later and wait for the sun to warm things up.
It's always an adventure getting there as the roads have big curves, steep climbs, and buses that will pass around blind corners. Toss in the road bandits and frequent blockades form various groups of the disgruntled and you better be ready for the challenge.